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47 articles

The IVAM Keeps a Medieval City Wall in Its BasementArt

The IVAM Keeps a Medieval City Wall in Its Basement

A 14th-century wall found while digging the foundations, 14,000 works upstairs, and three official pages that disagree on when it is free.

9min readRead →
Valencia's Second-Largest Market Is Made of ConcreteGastronomy

Valencia's Second-Largest Market Is Made of Concrete

A brutalist hall from 1962 with 160 food stalls, shutting at 15:00, in the neighbourhood where everything else opens at night.

9min readRead →
Valencia Has Two Fallas Museums, One Shut All AugustCulture

Valencia Has Two Fallas Museums, One Shut All August

Near-identical names, rescued ninots in both and a 2 euro ticket each, but different addresses and calendars that close on opposite days.

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Agua de Valencia Is Stirred, Never ShakenGastronomy

Agua de Valencia Is Stirred, Never Shaken

Cava from Requena or Utiel, freshly squeezed orange, vodka and gin, built in a jug and stirred gently so the bubbles survive.

8min readRead →
Valencia's Medieval Grain Store Has No Ticket DeskArchitecture

Valencia's Medieval Grain Store Has No Ticket Desk

A 14th-century wheat warehouse raised on the Muslim citadel, with guild paintings on the walls and free entry every day it opens.

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The Beach House of the Novelist Hollywood Filmed TwiceCulture

The Beach House of the Novelist Hollywood Filmed Twice

Two euros on the Malvarrosa sand, free on Sundays, and an hour of closure at lunchtime that catches out anyone walking up from the beach.

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95,000 Miniatures Behind a Gothic Door on CaballerosCulture

95,000 Miniatures Behind a Gothic Door on Caballeros

Dinosaurs to UN blue helmets in the world's largest historical miniature museum, eight euros, in a palace three doors from the seat of government.

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Thirty-Three Marble Statues Behind a Free GateNature

Thirty-Three Marble Statues Behind a Free Gate

A neoclassical garden of 12,000 square metres with a named 1849 designer, no ticket desk, and two official closing times that disagree.

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Valencia's Free Palace Asks for Your ID Before the DateArchitecture

Valencia's Free Palace Asks for Your ID Before the Date

No ticket desk, no chosen hour: you send a request with passport details and the Presidency assigns a morning, if its diary allows.

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The Valencia Church Where a Painting Descends on FridaysArt

The Valencia Church Where a Painting Descends on Fridays

A Ribalta canvas lowers on pulleys after the Friday Mass, a Thomas More manuscript sits in the museum, and five different prices are in circulation.

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A Visigothic Crypt That Shuts for Its Own FilmArchitecture

A Visigothic Crypt That Shuts for Its Own Film

Five screenings a day close the 6th-century vault to walk-in visitors, and the two city sources cannot even agree on whether Monday counts.

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Santos Juanes, Where Half the Ceiling Is a ProjectionArchitecture

Santos Juanes, Where Half the Ceiling Is a Projection

Three hundred and fifty square metres of restored Palomino, and an apse that exists only as videomapping because the paint burned in 1936.

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Spain's Oldest Botanical Garden Charges Four EurosNature

Spain's Oldest Botanical Garden Charges Four Euros

A university research collection of 4,500 species on four hectares, with an iron shade house from 1900 and a greenhouse of 5,000 glass panes.

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Valencia's History Sits Inside an 1850 Water ReservoirCulture

Valencia's History Sits Inside an 1850 Water Reservoir

Eleven vaults on 250 brick pillars, eight sections from Roman Valentia onwards, and two official addresses in two different towns.

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Valencia's Only Modernista Monument With No TicketArchitecture

Valencia's Only Modernista Monument With No Ticket

A working railway station with a 45-metre canopy, ceramics by La Ceramo and the word Norte drawn a different way on every surface.

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The Rice Mill Standing in Valencia's Fishing QuarterCulture

The Rice Mill Standing in Valencia's Fishing Quarter

A 1906 factory that ran until the 1970s, with its machines left in working order, two euros and ten minutes from the sand.

8min readRead →
Valencia's Other Silk Building, and Why It Costs MoreCulture

Valencia's Other Silk Building, and Why It Costs More

A Vergara fresco overhead, an eighteenth-century tiled floor underfoot and old looms in between, in the district named after the trade.

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The Valencia Tourist Card Does Not Cover the OceanogràficCulture

The Valencia Tourist Card Does Not Cover the Oceanogràfic

It pays for the airport metro and fourteen municipal sites, discounts the big attractions, and only the cheapest version hands you the cathedral.

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Albufera Boat Trips and How to Visit the LagoonNature

Albufera Boat Trips and How to Visit the Lagoon

No booking, no timetable and a forty minute crossing for four to six euros. The catch is that the last boat is set by the light, not by a clock.

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Bioparc Valencia and the Rule That Decides Your DayNature

Bioparc Valencia and the Rule That Decides Your Day

You cannot leave and come back, no outside food gets through the gate, and the last admission is an hour before closing. At €32.50 a head that settles the plan.

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El Cabanyal, Where the Listed Heritage Is the Street PlanArchitecture

El Cabanyal, Where the Listed Heritage Is the Street Plan

Spain's culture ministry stopped a 48-metre road through El Cabanyal by ruling it despoliation, because what the listing protects is the grid itself.

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